Never mind I have four other books patiently waiting for me to talk about them… let me be topical and up to date for once.

I pre-ordered this book months ago but had totally forgotten about it… I’m always wary of ‘follow-ups’ and let’s face it how can you improve on the chilling perfection that is ‘A handmaid’s tale’? How many times we’ve been disappointed by a follow up book? by a second album? or by a second helping of cake?

Also there’s a part of me that likes going against the current and not follow the crowd and am very sceptical of hyped books or movies, but… we’re talking Margaret Atwood not some random writer… So… it might just be worth a go…

I want to talk about this book now because the whole world is reading it and don’t want my thoughts to be tainted or my opinion swayed by what others think. I may be wrong in my thinking, I don’t know… but this is where I’m at.

First thought: mmmmhhh not sure. It felt too easy to read, which, as criticism go is pretty lame, I realise… too easy? How ridiculous… and yet the prose was so smooth and flowy… that I stupidly thought to myself, she’s dumbed it down for the masses, this is like a YF novel.

And then I sat on it for a day, and the book, the story, the characters would not leave me alone. The whole thing was constantly at the back of my menopausal mind and then it’s when I realised the genius of the woman. There’s no need for high flying words, there’s no need of bells and whistles… just a prose that’s so perfectly formed it’s deceptively simple, but what she says it’s not.

If you’re waiting for hear about Offred you’ll be disappointed… this is not a part 2 of the Handmaid’s Tale. ‘The testaments’ is much more. The story takes place 15 years (I think) after the end of the previous tale, and it is told (SPOILER ALERT) by three characters with different backgrounds and points of view, three women, of course, whose lives come together in the warped world of Gilead and come together for a common purpose, the destruction of the regime/system. The first is Aunt Lydia, one of the founding mothers, one is a girl grown up in Gilead who never really fit in and the other one is a girl who grew up on the outside but travels into Gilead for reasons that you’ll have to read yourself about!

No loose ends are left, through Aunt Lydia’s secret confession we learn how it all started and developed (terrifying… the whole ‘put a frog in lukewarm water and you can boil it to death before it notices… is chillingly real and frighteningly possible), about the human mind and what it can do for survival…she’s a complex, well developed character who holds the story in her hand and I wished we’d heard more from her. Agnes’ story is interesting because we get to know more about day to day life is in Gilead (not from the point of view of aHandmaid like in the previous novel, but a ‘normal’ girl’s side of the story), but the third ‘Jade/Nicole’ represent the outside world but in my opinion is by far the weakest of the characters and of the book.

The reason the book has stayed in my head is twofold. First it’s still a warning of how easy to is to slip into a situation that is seemingly impossible and yet totally possible. How easy it is to live one’s life ignoring what’s going on around you till it’s too late. How easy it is to give up personal freedom and ideals in exchange of personal safety, how it is everybody’s responsibility to take action before it’s too late. Secondly I felt there was an underlying sense of optimism and hope, yes, hope, that wasn’t there in the Handmaid’s tale. I felt that Attwood, in the end has enough faith in the human spirit, in people – in women, but also in men – that one day we’ll wake up and realise that we need to act and stop being spectators. Perhaps the book is a call to action. Where the book fails for me is at the end… and without giving too much away… I felt it turned into a hunger games/maze runner type adventure. Perhaps I read too much YF in the past… perhaps not.

So yes, read it. She is an amazing writer. This books IS lighter, has less gravitas than the Handmaid’s Tale, and in my opinion it’s not as good BUT it is worth reading. Read it slowly. Take in the details. The devil really is in the details here.

And then let me know what you think.

Do I believe it’s worth the Booker Price? Hard to say without having read any of the other ones as comparison, and it will be interesting to see if the hype will help or it’ll hinder. If I have to put money on it I’d say no, it shouldn’t win, even if I think Attwood is one of the best living writers out there.

Books, books, let’s talk about books again because it’s been a while and I have lots of them to share with you lovely people. Assuming there’s someone out there..

So, three books in just over two weeks isn’t bad going, but let’s face it, there were two long flights, lots of train journeys and a fiendish jet lag to deal with; all that equal a lot of reading time.

First up, a birthday present from my sister in law, is ‘The Pillow Book’ by Sei Shonagon. It was written by a gentlewoman at the Court of the Japanese Emperoro in around the turn of the last century (966-1017 circa) and it’s like a fascinating ‘diary’ of sort describing life among the nobles: their clothes are described in exquisites details, the poetry they wrote, the music, the day to day minutiae of people who let’s be frank… had not much to do. It offers a candid glimpse of the relationship between men and women, between different ranks and it is sometimes funny, sometimes a little snobby, sometimes very personal…

It’s very different from anything I’d ever read and I had to refer to the copious notes a lot – especially in deciphering all the reference to ‘classic japanese poems and people rank’s orders etc – which did slow down the narrative somewhat, but without doing that most of it would have been slightly incomprehensible. It was a good read to take whilst travelling through the country, that’s for sure.

“Pleasing things: finding a large number of tales that one has not read before. Or acquiring the second volume of a tale whose first volume one has enjoyed. But often it is a disappointment.”

The next book couldn’t be more different. ‘Hiroshima’ by John Hersey. Written the year after the bombing and subsequently updated, it follows four real life people from the fatal morning all the way through the rest of their lives. Hersey is a journalist and his style is unsentimental and factual… but the words speak for themselves. It was terrible events, unimaginable in destruction and pain.

“The crux of the matter is whether total war in its present form is justifiable, even when it serves a just purpose. Does it not have material and spiritual evil as its consequences which far exceed whatever good might result? When will our moralists give us an answer to this question?”

I had terrible jet-lag for the whole of the first week in Japan… I seem to be the only one not being able to sleep past 2 or 3 o’clock each night and because I didn’t want to wake up Mr M by turning the light on I simply grabbed my kindle and read… I have to be honest, I only read my kindle when on holiday… there’s nothing like the actual feel of paper in your hand, but in these situations it’s perfect. I opted for ‘Circe’ by Madeline Miller… and you know what? I was a little ‘meh’ about it. I loved ‘Songs of Achilles’, I loved ‘The secret of the girls’… this one left me a little cold. Also, her voice is very samey samey (technical term) and I couldn’t take myself away from her latest book I read and fully immerse myself in this one. Or maybe it was the subject matter I didn’t gel with. I don’t know. I’m glad I read it I suppose, but I don’t feel I can recommend it as strongly as her other books.

… and this is it… what have you read on holiday?

Do you like reading books written by ‘local’ authors if you go abroad? or set in the country/town/place you’re travelling or staying?

Last day.

We’re back in Tokyo for just over 24 hours and after travelling for two weeks the city feels familiar: the noise, the smell, the sounds… it’s why I love travelling so much, this feeling that even the most diverse place can be a little bit like home.

We have a wonder through the city at night and in the morning we headed to the ‘Team Lab – Borderless‘ installation to be amazed. And amazed we were.

It’s like being a kid… room after room of lights and images that mess with your perception a little and at times make you feel you’re in Avatar… know what I mean? Surely you must have wanted to live in that world?

you can walk in a field of waist high neon flowers
or sit in a room of lights
lose any idea of space
and depth…
you can have a shower of lights too
my favourite room, mirrors and hundreds of lamp that turn on as get near them…

Truly magical.

The perfect ending to a wonderful trip.

On our last morning in Kyoto I packed quickly and visited another temple… Kiyomizudera-dera… the main hall was unfortunately under repair but you can still visit inside and get an idea of how amazing it is, all built out of dark wood, sitting majestically on the side of the hill on the eastern side of the city – the dragon is the creature protecting the town on the east. Each point has an animal… the turtle is North… can’t remember the other ones, sorry – and the image of the dragon is quite prominent here:

It’s a fair hike in the August humidity… not the cleverest idea in my travelling clothes… live and learn…

prayers attached to bells hang from the ceiling at the entrance of the hall, playing in the wind, quite mesmerizing

I hadn’t heard of Kanazawa before looking into a possible itinerary. It was slightly out of the international tourist trails till a few years ago when a new bullet train line was opened that connected to Tokyo in a mere three hours. Kanazawa sits quietly on the coast of the sea of Japan and has a long history of being the second most powerful region of the country. We were driven there as something had happened to the train we were supposed to take, and this gave us the opportunity to sample Japanese motorway food…

the pork katsu was great
the ramen were ok
… we chickened out of the cheese tea

We arrived late afternoon and went straight to our ryokan, this time a minimalist gem with a moss garden instead of an ancient villa…

Talking of gardens, the first thing we did the morning after was visiting the Kenruoken gardens… amazing… shame it rained when were there…

It must be an incredible sights when the azaleas are in bloom, there are thousands of bushes!

We then crossed the road to walk through the Imperial palace that it’s been slowly rebuilt in the exact way it was, not just in style, but in materials and size… an incredible feat.

It’s not all old stuff in Kanazawa… we jumped a few centuries and visited a seriously cool contemporary art museum, 21st century Museum of Contemporary Art to be precise. Very crowded, but very cool.

the swimming pool, by Leandro Earlich

At this point I had to seriously engage all my diplomatic skills to convince the boys that as much as the call of the onsen was strong for me too, we had to go on… it was our last sightseeing day… we had to finish, no matter how ‘japanned-out’ we felt. They did, I’d still be there….

So quickly, because you’re probably all Japanned-Out too…

Gorgeous Samurai house and garden:

how gorgeous are these stairs?

then a quick drive across town to the old medieval geisha district which is stupendous and I’m really sad we ran out of time to walk around it properly… but we did meet a genuine real-life geisha house owner which was super interesting

this is us with Lady Baba… who despite the playful name was not a lady to be trifled with…

Monday morning, second week of school. No 3 has already destroyed his school shoes, admittedly they weren’t new, but I’d only bought them in May last year.

Sigh.

Also he thought that telling me on the Monday morning 5 minuted before we’re due to leave was a better option than owning up on Friday after school. I have a feeling he was opting for a ‘confess and run’ scenario rather than the ‘we have the weekend to sort it out’ one. Bad choice, dude. I threatened to buy him steel cap shoes next.

Sigh.

To console myself I’m making myself a Japanese inspired breakfast, rice, miso soup and eggs. Such a gentle way to start the day/week… and then let’s get back to Kyoto…

For our last full day we took a long taxi ride to the Golden Pavillion. While most of the big sites are walking distance from each other (I consider walking distance up to 30 min…) there are others that require buses or taxi, which are obviously more expensive but save you lots of time when you’re running low on that. In Tokyo we used the subway all the time, in Kyoto we walked or took a taxi, it was also unfathomably hot and humid that the idea of waiting for a bus in the sun… just didn’t click for us!)

The Golden Pavillion – or Kinkaku-ji – is quite an amazing sight: the building is really pretty and in a idyllic location in a perfectly manicured pond… but then they went and cover it with gold leaf and it’s just amazing. It is actually a pagoda made to house the sacred relics of the Buddha, and this is sadly an exact replica of the original which was burnt down by a monk who was obsessed by it. On the website you can read its long history but what I like the most about the place is that the principle that the buildings and gardens of Japanese temples reflect the Buddhist worldview. Simply by visiting a temple and experiencing its environment, one comes into contact with the teachings of Buddhism in a form even more convincing than sermons or lectures on Buddhist doctrine.

rustic tea room in the grounds of the temple

In for a temple… in for another, right?

Back in town we visited the Daitoku-ji temple complex… only a few were open to the public, but the whole area was refreshingly non busy, so you could really feel the zen tranquillity in the air (hot/humid air…)

At sunset we walked back through the Gion area hoping to see Maikos heading to work, no such luck, but we were rewarded nonetheless by a golden sunset

Glorious ending to our last day in Kyoto

More Kyoto. More temples. Frankly, it’s all about them… oh and the geisha too…

So after the Fushimi Inari shrine/amazing red torii gate experience we headed back to the hotel for breakfast and then out again for more:

first up this one, dedicated it seems to a while boar. No English description (and why should they, in all honesty), but really fascinating.

In the same big compound stands the Kenniji Temple, grandiose and made up of various building and – finally – our first zen garden, or dry garden… the most peaceful of places.

… and a moss garden…

and a favourite of mine, a round window…

the main hall has a huge painting on the ceiling – fairly recent but incredibly powerful

The next day we took it a little easier; the boys did some totally bonkers virtual reality ninja training and then retired by the pool, Mr M and I took in the MOMAK , for our weekly modern art fix.

giant gate – and I mean… giant…

Back at the hotel we saw a gorgeous dance show by a Maiko, an apprentice Geisha… so delicate and gentle… a real snapshot into the past…

Kyoto is magical. President Truman, when choosing a target for the first atomic bomb discarded Kyoto because he’d spent his honeymoon there and loved it so much. It was for century the old capital of Japan (before to move to Tokyo a couple of century ago. It houses 1700 temples and shrines. It will capture your heart.

We arrived in a monsoon after a quick train ride from Hiroshima and whilst the boys and Mr M settled in the hotel I felt I had to get out and ‘breath the local air’. Of course I got totally soaked on my way to the Tokyo National Museum but nobody seem to mind that my shoes squelched around the halls, I wasn’t alone. It’s a gorgeous museum, not big like it could have been, apparently they have millions of pieces, because they rotate the exhibition a few times a year, so in an hour or so you can walk around the 6 vast rooms listening to the audioguide and have a good idea about statues, pottery, ancient objects, old manuscripts, textiles and paintings. A great and instructive overview that almost leaves you wanting fore more and so, if you had the chance, would definitively go back again… So clever. If you’ve lost the will to live at the louvre for example you know exactly what I mean.

… the new wing is deliciously midcentury in style…

When I left, still with wet feet and dripping trousers, I decided to take the long way back to the hotel… and kind of got lost… kind of… but it was so much fun, so many things to see…

temple walls…
fancy gates…
even fancier gates…
and my favourite…
and then my first temple!

I knew exactly what I wanted to see first in Kyoto, the Fushimi Inari Shrine… in my list of things to see since like forever… it had captured my imagination since I saw it on an ancient National Geographic magazine back in the day when I couldn’t speak English… I didn’t know what it was then but I had massive butterfly when we started off in the morning. Our hotel suggested getting there at 7 and then get back for breakfast and it was such a good idea… we were literally amongst the first ones there and it was ‘goosebumpy’. Yes, it’s a word.

Forgive me the photo vomit…

impressive…
the shrine is dedicated to this fellow, the fox, guardian of the rice storage and hence of wealth
that colour!
there are many smaller shrines dotted around the place…
…but then… the Torii gates begin… (I had tears in my eyes… silly eh?)
me and Mr M… had to be done…
us…

… and then we went back to the hotel for breakfast. Still pinching myself.

I’ve just said goodbye to the boys for the their first day of school, Lilli – the ferocious beast – is snoring on the sofa already, the builders coming to take down the terrace with their pneumatic hammer have not arrived yet so all it’s calm and quiet in the house. Today it all begins again: the early rides to the bus, the rugby matches, the night training, the homework… my lessons won’t begin for another couple of weeks and whilst I’m really looking forward to going back to college, I know I’m going to relish these last few ‘slow’ days.

A short train ride from Hiroshima took us to Okayama – famous for its peaches apparently – where we took the ferry to Naoshima Island, famous for its art museum. If you like contemporary art this place (and the other Island Teshima) are a must.

… art everywhere, this giant fish at Uno Port, was made by all the rubbish collected in the harbour
And the ferry that took us across had the famous spots used in all her artwork by the artist Yayoi Kusama
who also make this famous giant red pumpkin on Taoshima Harbour

We were staying in Benesse House, a hotel/museum place right on Seto Inland Sea (Sea of Japan for the Japanese, China Sea for the Chinese… you pick), designed by the amazing architect Tadao Ando.

For some bizarre reason I have no photos of the outside of the place… and only a few of the inside…

the husband walking to breakfast… you literally walk through the museum part to get to the restaurant… which is a fabulous and slightly spooky experience at night time when very few lights are on
me, in the corridor. Everything is an installation around you.

It was a very serene place to stay. The rooms weren’t smartly designed full of clever use of space, great views and comfortable beds.

That afternoon we visited the Chichu Art Museum (designed by Tadao Ando too) which shot up to the top five of the best buildings I’ve ever saw; entirely underground and yet entirely illuminated by natural light…(which means that the light and feel change throughout the days and with the seasons…), it’s just breathtaking. Unfortunately they don’t allow you to take photos but please check the website because it’s worth seen. I once watched a ted talk by a museum curator explaining the battles he went through with the board of his museum about putting their collection on line; he said something that really stuck with me and I whole heartedly agree with him. He asked ‘which is the most famous painting in the world? The Mona lisa, right? everybody knows what the Mona Lisa looks like and yet… it’s the most visited painting in the world. Why?

I strongly believe that people taking photos and showing them to friends doesn’t stop people from wanting to visit… quite the opposite. The Chichu museum is hard to explain in words. The feeling of the place, the light, the sounds… these don’t come out in a photo but people know that which is why they visit in person…

Anyway, check it out. And go visit. There’s a giant room containing 4 of Monet’s waterlilies huge paintings that is spectacular.

After that back on the courtesy bus (in all these places you can hire electric bikes, but we were too late for it) to another small but perfectly form concrete masterpiece, the Lee Ufan Museum. (Another Tadao Ando masterpiece)

The Benesse Museum – not to be confused, with the confusingly Benesse House Museum, is also filled with interesting pieces.

The next day, after a visit to the Yellow Pumpkin – never queued to photograph a pumpkin before, quite an interesting cultural experience let me tell you, hordes of Japanese girls going totally nuts over it…

Another ferry ride took us to Teshima Island, where we had lunch in a local joint and had our first ‘shaven ice’

we had fried chicken and rice, delish
local strawberries

The main reason for this trip was visiting the Teshima Art Museum, the most amazing and bonkers idea ever. Basically the building IS the installation…a joint effort between the artist Rei Naito and architect Ryue Nishizawa a soft, cavernous building dedicated to water drops. Yes, drops. You take off your shoes, enter the space, no talking and just feel the air swirling around you from too large circle cut out in the ceiling and focus you attention of little water drops emerging from the ground, joining each other, sinking back down… Absolutely compelling. You take off your shoes, enter the space, no talking, and just feel the air swirling around you from too large circle cut out in the ceiling and focus you attention of little water drops emerging from the ground, joining each other, sinking back down… Absolutely compelling.

Again no pictures allowed but I managed to sneak a few for your benefit

… Even the boys were quite taken by this… it was the most peaceful of places.

Enough art for now, you can stay in the islands for many days as there are many more installations/studios/museums to see… they deserve a trip all of their own but sadly this is all we have time for… tomorrow Kyoto!

Just under an hour from the centre of Hiroshima, half way up a hill, in a quiet residential street there is the most gorgeous ‘ryokan’ you can possibly imagine.

A ryokan is a is a type of traditional Japanese inn that typically feature tatami-matted rooms, communal baths, and other public areas where visitors may wear yukata, which are lightweight cotton kimono type garments. This the Wikipedia definition… and it feels a little dry. In the case of the ‘Sekitei‘ it just doesn’t do justice to the magic of the place. In fact it is probably my favourite place of all the ones we stayed in during our trip.

My photos have downloaded in mysterious ways so… well come with me on a tour…

When you arrive in a ryokan you take your shoes off and get given slippers to wear around the place (… they never fit big feet and No 1’s size 12 canoes looked absolutely hilarious in the denty little things, even the staff laughed every time he shuffled by).

We were then served a welcome tea, of green tea and salted ice cream in a waffle sandwich type thing. Delicious unless you don’t like green tea like 4 out of five of us. I do, and that one was particularly sweet.

can’t remember what those other things were, probably bean paste somethings

our room/suite was simply divine. Seriously, I didn’t want to leave at all… it had a mixture of Japanese style furniture with some cracking mid-century pieces, a killer view, a quiet, zen atmosphere…

view from a cozy seating area
… details…

Not to mention the most amazing bath… that there is an onsen bath, a special tap would fill it with naturally hot spring water… bliss. There was also a separate shower room, because you must wash before relaxing in an onsen.

the beds were low… but super comfortable although I haven’t mastered a graceful getting up/lying down manouvre. Imagine an ostrich trying a futon and you get the idea.

when you go outside to admire the garden you must change footwear

… the decor, the garden… and then when you think it can’t get any better… the baths! Naturally spring water coming out of the ground at a perfect 40C, rich in minerals and really good for your skin.

They are public, male and female separate, although as I said you can use the wooden tub in the room if you prefer. I went in and ‘learnt’ from surreptitiously looking around… So, if you take the door at the end of the corridor, right in front of you…

You take off your house slippers and enter this cozy room, take off all your clothes and put them in one of the basket, grab a flannel, and a small towel and move on to here:

a beautiful wash room all in wood (it smelt so great) and wash yourself; I mean PROPERLY! I have never seen adults taking so much care in washing themselves over an over again… quite disconcerting at times, but nobody looks at anybody else at all and it’s strangely private even if totally public. When you’re sparkling clean you cover yourself modestly with a small towel in front of you and then you have a choice of an indoor onsen, or an outdoor one…

Aaaand relax… Absolutely bliss.

After you don your ‘yukata’ and chill in your room. The boys would probably kill me for showing you this but here’s them waiting for dinner in their Japanese garbs:

Dinner. Dinners are not just dinner… the chefs take as much pride in their presentation as they do in the food itself and whilst not everything was ‘agreeable’ to our Western palate, the look of the food was mind blowing.

… eel. (actually really nice!), and a small bowl of sake to start… the writing underneath was the menu… so beautifully written
… nope, just couldn’t, it had eyes!
yes to the gorgeous sashimi on the right… the selfish/squid on the left however…
I mean look at this plate! So many delicious things I have no idea what the are!! (I think I only recognised the tomato which made me silly happy!)
beef broth, rich and warming
no idea, nice though
pudding, fruity/creamy

I also opted for the ‘Japanese breakfast’ in the morning. Very nice indeed.

I think I need to buy a rice cooker. I miss rice.

We’re back. I decided to leave the computer in the suitcase in the end and simply enjoy the time away. Good choice on my part. It’s been an amazing trip and I’ll never forget it. Also, I’d like to go back!

So, let’s see where was I?… Hiroshima. Yes. Wow.

What can be said of this place? I remember studying the events of August 6, 1945, 8.15am, when I was a little girl and they really made an impression on me and are still vivid in my mind, unlike a lot of the other things learnt in school!

Hiroshima these days is a big, vibrant, modern city… but standing right underneath the spot where the first atomic bomb exploded… is quite a chilling feeling. Our guide Nebu was brilliant and knowledgeable, her grandmother is still alive and was near the city when it all happened, making the whole experience even more real.

The museum is extremely well done and informative, we spent hours there and could have spent more if our day itinerary had allowed it. (It is also housed in a gorgeous midcentury modern building, and you know how much I love those…).

It traces what happened on that faithful day with photographs and objects and testimonies of the people who survived it… not an easy place to visit.

They kept one building as it was left after the bombing as a reminder and it’s more effective than any memorial that could have been built:

After a slightly surreal Italian lunch (they boys were left slightly traumatised by the previous night dinner and needed familiar flavours), we took a ferry to Miajima Island to see the famous floating ItsukushimaTorii and Shrine. Unfortunately the gate was under wrap but the shrine was glorious in all its red glory.

hi, this is us, in our sweatiest selves… boys was it humid!
you throw a coin and say a prayer, you bow twice, clap your hands, bow again… I think…
and you know it’s a shinto shrine (as opposed to a buddhist temple) because of the red gate AND there are no images of gods.
they have sake though…
you can, for a small donation, have your fortune told. If it’s bad news you can tie it here and let the god take care of it. Good system.

It was a fabulous day. Tomorrow I’ll show you the amazing place we stayed at and the incredible food we were served.